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100NX GTI parvertibas
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wildthing

Joined: 12 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:54 pm    Post subject: 100NX GTI parvertibas Reply with quote

Nu tad taa Smile pec ilgam un garam pardomam, ko darit ar jums visiem labi zinamo Bluebird Sr20det black top dzineju.Pec daziem meginajumies vinu pardot arvalstis, kuri protams neizdevas, tika pienemts lemums ielikt to visu 100NX'a.Pec LV variantu apskatisanas tika saprasts ka pie mums tas masinas ir sausmigi maz, un tika pienemts lemums nopirkt vinu Vacija.Ta nu pec meklejumiem pa mobili.de tika nopirkts sis:
Nissan 100nx GTI ar sr20de dzineju :



Taka, auto celo ar trileri uz LV, tad papildinasu so topicu ar laiku Wink
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Renars

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no sita szrkana puteklusuceja kadreiz bus baigi jauzmanas Mr. Green
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sejejs

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samērā viegli būs dabūt gatavu, viss vienāds, tik daži vadi jānomaina un kompis. Smile
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waldmenz

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sejejs wrote:
Samērā viegli būs dabūt gatavu, viss vienāds, tik daži vadi jānomaina un kompis. Smile


Buus Chiks Piks swaps Mr. Green Mr. Green

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Zaarciniex
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

waldmenz wrote:
sejejs wrote:
Samērā viegli būs dabūt gatavu, viss vienāds, tik daži vadi jānomaina un kompis. Smile


Buus Chiks Piks swaps Mr. Green Mr. Green


Aizmirsi piebilst, ka "kaarteejais" .... chix, pix swaps! Cool Cool

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xx

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cik Hp tam SR20DET Rolling Eyes
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Zaarciniex
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

xx wrote:
Cik Hp tam SR20DET Rolling Eyes


Cik vajag!! Un! Cik vajag??

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jnk

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pietiekoši, lai sajustu, kura piedziņa ir pareizā Mr. Green
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HaL

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

būvēs jau 4wd, liekot Pulsar piekari (tjip esot tāda pati) Rolling Eyes
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Fii

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HaL wrote:
būvēs jau 4wd, liekot Pulsar piekari (tjip esot tāda pati) Rolling Eyes

Chiks, piks... Mr. Green

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HaL

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

viss jau čiks piks Mr. Green
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waldmenz

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HaL wrote:
viss jau čiks piks Mr. Green


Un peec gada dzirdees taadus vaardus: "Viss jau izpiipeets tikai jaasaregulee" Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green Mr. Green

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wildthing

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update Smile

iegadatas sadas tadas mantas:

Cooleris


Blowoffs


255L Walboro sukniitis
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Vetal

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dvorniki jau ir iegadati? Tas tak ir galvenais... nevis motoru ielikt un pievienot Laughing
Citiem vardiem, BlowOffs shajaa stadijaa bija galigi nepiecieshams Very Happy

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wildthing

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nu tas tak chiks piks swaps, tapec jasaperk lai viss ir pa rokai Mr. Green

rekur saraksts kas jadara Mr. Green

Use DET ECU

Use DE Wiring loom (engine harness, EFI harness, and main ECCS harness) *note, put engines side by side, remove DE harness completely, then apply to DET plug by plug (if your concerned about getting something wrong) but really, all the plugs are different, you cant go wrong here. The EGR connector on the DE loom is unused, let it hang down. DET's don't have EGR

Use DE Tranny (two bolts will no longer line up)

Use DE Flywheel and a new 4-puck ceramic button clutch

Use DE Alternator and Starter Motor (as you know they are good)

Use DET water pump, power steering pump, etc unless you feel you need to change them.

Use DE Aircon and aircon bracket (note, you can keep all the aircon in the car whilst doing the swap, unbolt it from he DE, then unbolt the pipe clamps that hold the pipes on the body of the car, so you can move the compressor downwards out the bottom of the engine bay. It can hang there (cable tie it) whilst you remove the DE)

Use DE Engine Mounts (I recall an issue with the front mount, unsure, don't remember)

Use DE TPS (throttle position sensor) - Unscrew this little black device from your DE throttle (two adjustable little screws, try to take note of the TPS's position on the throttle and when screwing it down onto the DET throttle, try get it in a simular position. Mine isn't perfect, and I feel its causing some of my idle problems, possibly, never mind its not critical)

O2 Sensor (on dump pipe) wiring will need extending

Only two bolts out of three on the drivers side half-shaft bracket will bolt to the block, this will be fine. Do not over tighten these, you could snap them off.

The air/idle control valve under the intake manifold wont reach the wiring loom (loom doesn't reach) you need to either extend the looms wires, or do what I did. unbolt the air/idle unit, flip it around backwards, bolt it back on, then pull the pipes off it, and re-install pipes in a different configuration. I had to use a spare long length of pipe for this to work.

The cross member under the engine needs to be modified in order for the DET to not hit on it. The DET's upper sump will touch or possibly JUST clear the cross member. Mark where it needs to be modified with a texter (about 5 inches across). Get your trusty oxy torch, heat up the cross member and pad on top, when red hot, smash it in/down with a large hammer. Dent the sucker in. Best to heat up and dent in, than to chop sections out. This way we keep the strength in the cross member. I did all this marking and checking for clearance whilst the DET was hoisted up, so I could stick the cross member back on the engine to check for clearance.

The DET lower SUMP. Inspect this closely. Its the black pan on the very bottom of your engine. Please note, if this is dented in, even a tiny bit (the slightest concave) then remove it, and knock it out. The biggest cause of engine failure for the SR20's is a dented oil pan. A dent will cause the oil pickup to not be able to pick up oil, causing the bottom end to fail, you will spin big end bearings and be very sad. I had a very tiny concave, so I removed it to be safe, even though it would have been ok. I ripped it off with a stanley knife and large screwdriver. I then knocked it out with a big hammer, and resealed with some "threebond" seal. Threebond is gods choice of sealant, get this. Use this. I also used it to re-seal the DET thermostat housing.

I think there is a solenoid that comes with the DET for the charcoal canister. I ditched this. I blocked off one of the charcoal canister's hoses too. I'll have to have a closer look at this. I wouldn't mind pissing the canister off all together.

Use DE temp gauge sender unit and possibly the temp sensor for ECU sender. I only changed the gauge sender, one wire, black housing, its next to the water temp sensor which is red housing two wires. Just above oil filter, under intake. Swap this over or your gauge will read way too hot for what's really going on.

I removed the drivers side radiator fan, as my mate told me that it wont fit in there with the turbo, etc in the way. I have however seen other N14's around with both fans still in. My mate reckons you need to modify the cowling for the fan to fit, I'm not sure. Mine is cracked, due to the DE hitting it on the way down and breaking it so I don't know, I will organise some new Davis Craig fans in the future anyway, more flow, more space.

The top mount on the DET will knock on the back ribbing of the bonnet. The flat I/C pipe on the valve cover will also scrub on your bonnet's sound deadening and cause an ugly scratch mark on your pipe. I've raised the back of my bonnet using some spacer nuts and longer bolts, I've also removed the rubber strip along the back edge of the bonnet to allow some of the heat to escape out of my engine bay whilst I'm running this top mount with no venting. I will probably be doing a custom bonnet with custom scoop. I feel front mounts are good for big boost, but for a fairly stock configuration and no turbo swap, the top mount is better. (if vented) Much better throttle response due to short pipe work, etc.

Clutches, I used a 4-puck Ceramic button clutch and a wired and weighted 750kg pressure plate. I purchased a KIT from Adelaide Clutch for $544. Ring them, and tell them what your doing. Get this clutch it's awesome. It can be a bit clunky in slow city traffic and when parking and launching, but you get used to it, and its damn tough!

Fluids. I chose Redline Mt90 Gear oil for my tranny. I filled the engine with Nissan special blend 7.5W30 to run the engine in. I was supposed to drain this after a few weeks, but I'm still running it after 4 months, definitely due for a drain and swap. I'll be most likely running a 10W60 Castrol racing oil or a Redline 10W40 or 30. Unsure as yet.
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